With each step of our last kilometer yesterday from Najera to San Domingo (21 km in total) Jon’s face was grimaced with pain. He was done and I knew we were going to have to adjust our Camino schedule and pace. We decided to stay in San Domingo and not try for another 6 km to Garon. We arrived at a convent and Jon literally collapsed at the door. A sweet nun took our Camino passports and showed us upstairs to our humble accommodations for only a 5 euro donation.
San Domingo turned out to be the best choice! Alfred, our friend from day one, was in San Domingo and it was a joyous reunion. We also made some new friends, Nadine (Philadelphia) & Mirra (San Francisco) and together made a lentil dish with wine (our friend Felix’s family’s label) and chocolate in the courtyard of the abbey under a big oak tree. To top off the day our bunk mates turned out to be Spanish doctors walking the Camino and tended to Jon’s foot with their own bandages. Thank you Michelle & Manuel!!
Today we set out for Belorado, 22.9 km, around 6am. We walked most of the way with Mirra and the excellent conversation made the hours fly right by. It was a stormy day and we walked right into the wind for most of it, but it didn’t actually rain till we arrived at our hostel in Belorado. After naps and showers Jon and I explored the delightful town and hiked up to the castle ruins of the Navarre King, Alfonso I, built in 866 A.D. We sat up top the ruins, looking over the town below, and were completely content.
Just finished a swim at the hostel with Jon and Michael from Switzerland and sipping some coffee while the rain falls gently outside. Now that Jon’s feet are healing we are excited for the next chapter of the Camino: space to think. With all Jon’s pain and my needing to take care of him we had little capacity to do much more than manage pain this last week. Now we can use this walk to be present, more aware of our limits as mere, bodily humans.
(Pictures include our walk from Najera to San Domingo, our meal at the Abbey and time in San Domingo, walking with Mirra and us getting bird poop off Jon’s shirt, and rest spot on Castle ruins in Belorado)